From:
"Andrei Stefanescu" <andrei_stefanescu@xxxxxx>
Date:
Sun, 20 Feb 2000 13:42:07 +0100
Subject:
green wheel / tooling up for a symposium
Hi Erik,
sounds like a fabulous project...never a dull moment!
Re your points, these are my bits :)
Quoted text begins.2) shaping carbide tipped tools: the local Cuturi vendor
tried to sell me a "green wheel" for reworking the carbide
tips on my bench grinder.
End of quote.
This is the advice I got from Milani, a tools vendor in Pietrasanta:
Use a green grinding rod to shape the edges of a very thin red wheel (0.5
cm) into a V-form (mount the wheel and turn the grinder on, then gently
press the rod against the edge and shape it). I did it and it worked just
fine. I used the wheel thus shaped to recondition a number of used gradini.
The hardened area of the tips is big enough to get teeth of the original
depth. The geometry might not be perfect as when new, but the tools were
usable again - both steel and carbide-tipped.
To re-do the teeth, you work on the outer indentations first, which gives
you the general shape. First one side, left and right, then the other side.
Then the middle indentation(s).
It is essential to keep the tip cool. After a second or two dip it into
water.
Quoted text begins.What is the composition of such a wheel? Does it provide any
advantage over the aluminum oxide types?
End of quote.
Sorry, that I don't know.
Quoted text begins.
As to the geometry of the tips, what do you consider optimal
angles for point, chisel, gradina when using with air-tools?
End of quote.
It might not be a good idea to use an air-powered point. It takes away very
much, very fast, depth is difficult to control. As to the optimal angle, if
you buy power-tools for working marble you get precisely what you need. The
Cuturi dealer certainly has that, has he not? I suggest you get three-teeth
gradini for the raw work (even two teeth - they take away tremendous
amounts and can be controlled very finely), and four-teeth for the finer
work. You might also want to consider three sizes of air hammers, two at the
minimum. I think Cuturi has five sizes. The largest I found too heavy, but
the second and the middle size are quite useful. The smallest is good for
fine work like hair, mouths, etc.
Quoted text begins.
3) removing large pieces from the top of a 6-foot standing
figure:
End of quote.
Perhaps you could use a large Flex to make deep cuts from opposite
directions and then wedge free.
You probably need to secure the block first, perhaps by attaching some hooks
to it and chain it to a crane (thereby marring the block somewhat).
Quoted text begins.4) what are the tools you prefer for surface finishing? On
smaller pieces I have used rifflers and emery cloth, usually
wet. In metal work I often used flap wheels and followed up
with a cotton buff and jewelers' rouge. Eventualy I expect
to work some granite as well, and understand that "diamond
paste" is normal there; would it be used on marble as well?
End of quote.
I found diamond sponges to be extremely effective. They come in three
granulations. You use them wet to form a marble paste of the consistency of
tooth paste. The result is very good. However on a piece of the size and
within the time frame you're describing it might not be so effective after
all :-) unless you find such sponges as attachments to some power tool.
I'd love to hear about the progress you're making!
Regards,
Andrei
- References
- message 00405: tooling up for a symposium - Erik Stainsby (19 Feb 2000)
- Previous by Thread: message 00414: symposium - Steven Humphrey (23 Feb 2000)
- Next by Thread: message 00415: Frosterly stone - Nigel Gordon (28 Feb 2000)
- Previous by Date: message 00410: green wheel / tooling up for a symposium - Seamus O'Mahoney (27 Feb 2000)
- Next by Date: message 00416: Thetis Island carving workshop - Linda Wincey (27 Feb 2000)
