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steels

Stone Conversations : Archive 3 : Message 00574

From: VenezianoJ@xxxxxxx
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 21:25:39 EDT
Subject: steels

First stop would be your local yellow pages, under "Steel Distributors and
Warehouses". Don't be surprised, though, if they don't have the higher
carbon steels. Many only deal with "structural steel". Also talk with local
machine shops, they may be able to steer you to a closer dealer, or possibly
even sell you some themselves. (Sometimes, they might even give you some
smaller pieces *free* -- if its just scrap to them....)

Then there is also junkyards and scrap dealers. 5160 comes in the form of
truck and car springs, coil and leaf. Old jackhammer bits are sometimes S7,
sometimes another higher carbon tool steel (be careful with jackhammer bits,
though. Reportedly, some have a hollow running down the center, and can
react nastily when you heat and hammer. I personally haven't encountered
these, but its still worth taking the time to cut one before you hammer).
Old crow bars that you can pick up at garage sales and flea markets are
usually good steel. So are, believe it or not, lug wrenches.

Also, you can of course buy stock new from some of the suppliers that
specialize in tool steel, such as Crucible Steel and Admiral Steel. I'll see
if I can hunt up some phone numbers and/or websites.

As for forges, a gas forge like most farrier's use will certainly work. I'm
personally not as fond of gas (propane), think it tends to make more scale
(oxide), don't seem to get as hot as other types of forges. That said,
they'll get hot enough, and not being as hot can be an advantage (it is very
possible to burn steel. Any blacksmith who tells you he never has is a liar
(grin)). I use a coal forge, an old riveter's forge. My first was a
converted hibachi -- added some plumbing pipe and used the exhaust of a
ShopVac to get the steel up to heat. Drawbacks to coal are the smell (a
consideration if you have neighbors), and it can be trickier to find in some
places. Charcoal works too -- briquettes work, but they go to ash real
quick, lump charcoal is better. REGARDLESS OF THE TYPE OF FORGE, WORKING IN
A VERY WELL VENTILATED AREA IS A MUST. Seems to be a natural with coal and
charcoal, but some tend to use a gas forge in an area without proper
ventilation...one of the natural byproducts of any forge is carbon monoxide...

There are a couple sites out there worth looking at for general
information on building forges, etc. One is, well, the site where I
first heard about this list -- [URL now obsolete]. Another good one is
http://www.anvilfire.com

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