Advice on a brief trip to Tuscany

["Clive Murray-White" <clivemw@zzzzzzzzzzzzzzz>]

Dear Norman,

Tuscany!

Some years ago I spent 3 1/2 months in an Australian Government (Australia
Council) Tuscan studio/residence in a tiny village in the hills between Pisa
and Florence, I'm fairly certain it changed my life (for the better).

I was not a stone carver in those days so I didn't really get into stone
things in a huge way.

Many of my friends and acquaintances dropped in for short stays and I found
myself noticing that there were 2 distinct types of traveller, those that
collect destinations and rush to see everything that you are "supposed to
see", and those who let Tuscany weave its incredible magic on them. By my
way of thinking the second group went home with a far deeper experience.

There is tourist Tuscany and Tuscan Tuscany and the two barely collide. I
think the most rewarding way to find the real stuff is to drive. Italian
driving takes a bit of getting used to! but it can be fabulous fun once you
let go of your own national driving style and submerse yourself in their's.

There is a basic rule turn left or right off the main highway between
Florence and Pisa and you will just about always enter another world of
small villages set in the hills on either side of the Arno Valley (pretty
industrial all the way). Italians like to tell you that their country was
often invaded but instead of the invaders changing Italians all invaders
became Italian. You can see why if you start your day the way they do, go to
your local bar, stand up the bar and have an espresso or a late (should have
an accent on the "e"), just as they do, forget de-caf, skinny mild and all
that. The little bars are the social centre of each little village, coffee,
icecream (must be tried) alcohol (each little bar has what they call an
"aperitivo della casa", every bar makes a different one)

Nearly every little village has what they call a "Sagra" this is a community
celebration, all welcome, the reasons for these have obviously come down
through the ages.

Apart from Florence, Sienna, San Gimignano and Voltera + random villages a
must.

Eating can be serious fun but finding a "real" Italian restaurant is very
difficult, the wildest experience is the ones that don't have a menu, a bit
terrifying if you can't speak the language, I don't but Italians are very
helpful. They sort of ask what you may want. then bring what they think you
wanted along with appropriate local wine. The Tuscan's boast that French
cuisine was developed from their cooking, it is true,and what is best about
it is that they make the very best of seasonal produce.

I know I haven't raved about the art etc but you can't miss that but you can
miss Tuscany if you don't let yourself live in it.

Have fun,

Regards Clive

Sculptor Clive Murray-White
Web: www.cowwarr.com