Photos with graduated backdrops

[Bill Marsh <bmarsh54@zzzzzzzzzzzzz>]

Bulbs with color temperature of daylight can be bought for floodlight
fixtures, so you can use daylight balanced film.  Alternatively, you can
use regular light bulbs with tungsten-balanced film, although to exactly
match the color temperature of the lights to film, the bulbs should be
rated at 3200deg Kelvin.  You can also use daylight film with a 81A
(blue) filter on the lens for 3200deg Kelvin lights.  Fluorescent lights
are hard to match with film using filters.  In my experience, it is
nearly impossible to neutralize the green cast they give off so that it
looks natural.  Tungsten lights are much easier to match.  Of course, if
you have studio flash, then your problems are over.

Shooting at night removes the bleed-in of daylight into the scene.
 You'll need one key light, placed to one side of the camera, pointed at
the "front" of the piece, and a softened overhead to isolate the piece
 from the background.  A white or silver card can be used to reflect
light into deep shadows opposite the key light.

A pressed white cloth sheet (or any color - black for a white stone
piece, for example) draped from the top of a wall, out onto a steady
table on which you place the piece, will eliminate any background.  You
can eliminate any shadows caste by the piece itself by adjusting the
distance of the table from the wall.  Use a longer lens to further
isolate the piece from the background, as the longer the lens, the
shallower the depth of focus.  I use a 105mm or sometimes an 85mm.

If you have access to a digital camera, your troubles are basically
over, what with instant results to adjust from, white balance
adjustments, etc.  Use the highest resolution to capture the image, as
you can always reduce in Photoshop for putting on the web.

Bill Marsh