rounded abrasive bricks

["Disbrow Consulting" <diz@zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz>]

Morning Kathy,
The expense of diamond saws has really dropped dramatically since I started
playing worth rocks and bricks and other kewl stuff what was it 25 years
ago( Gasp.. I can't be that old).  In those days diamonds saws were so
expensive that novitiates used fiber abrasive blades because a misstwist of
the diamond and a considerable investment "bit the grit."   I never
personally invested in the big saws 1. because I can't justify the expense,
and 2. I have clients with bigger saws.  Five things that I would interject
for consideration when cutting granite aggregates: 1. Wear Goggles.  I am
not a goggle woos, but when you are cutting concrete with granite aggregate
remember that the granite is a whole lot harder than the concrete, and if
the saw sticks the wrong way... the granite can come flying out like a piece
of shrapnel.  I have a quirky ding in my left cheekbone from a piece of
stone that flew about 50 feet to bite me.  In my case it may have improved
my looks, but it wasn't a fun surprise. 2. use water.  Granite heats any
stone tool to a point where its useful life is shortened. A little trickle
of water from a little watering can makes all the difference.  It will help
with the dust problem as well, and has the added advantage of carrying off
the dust/mud/material that will make your cut more visible and straight.  3.
Wear that mask if the dust bothers you at all, it will come-in handy for
many other things outside of stone dust in life.  It's Fall in New England,
and another round of great allergic material is out there... trust me.. keep
exposing yourself to dust and in the "short run" you will discover
interesting new allergies.  I don't care if I look like "Diver Dan" when I
am mowing-up the dried leaves, as long as I don't sound like "El Snorto the
Clown" when I go home in the evenings.  4.  Use the Depth Gauge on your
skill saw to reduce the friction area of the blade and give yourself a
little more control.  You can always drop the depth as needed, and a
shallower bite will keep the blade cooler as well.  5.  Pick-up a little
abrasive blade for masonry first (Most hardware stores for under $5)  It's a
cheap starter course, and a bit safer for the first time you catch an edge
wrong and let the saw skid backwards and slam your knee.  I get my skill
saws for masonry and steel cutting from yard sales.  The "fly" materials end
up fouling the motor brushes fairly quickly, and tend to permanently bind-up
the sliding blade guard.  When I wreck a $5 yardsale skill saw I don't mind
so much.  When the $300 DeWalt goes I tend to consider holding funeral
services and wailing into the night.
Craig Disbrow, MBA, JD.
Disbrow Consulting
603 523 4259 (Voice)
603 523 4574 (Facsimile)