Article on shop design.

[don dougan <dondougan@zzzzzzzz>]

Norman,

I've never done anything for an individual studio design (mine has just
sort of evolved over the last 26 years), but I have written a proposal
for converting/adding an existing academic classroom space with adjacent
courtyard into a small multi-media sculpture studio at the behest of my
Department Chairman.  I don't imagine you are going to be that ambitious,
though, are you?  If you are interested, I'll be glad to send it out as
an attachment to you (or anybody) off-list.
It is not detailed drawings, just some basic considerations on outfitting
a studio that would allow modelling, plasterwork, welded-steel
fabrication, stone and wood carving and an office.  The proposed studio
space is close by a well-equipped ceramic studio and a well-equipped
woodshop, so those areas are not discussed at all.

You might find FINE WOODWORKING magazine's annual issue about shops and
shop-built tools/equipment  more helpful, even though it is done for
woodworkers, much of the design concepts would also apply to a
stone-working shop.  I think the issue is out on the newsstands now, it
is the 2004-2005 Winter issue -- mine came in the mail recently.
Some of their articles are on-line -- but I don't know about any of their
back-issues.

http://www.finewoodworking.com

In this most recent one, issue #174, they have an article about floors
for shops -- including rubber mats --and I'd like to add my two cents on
that topic.
If you can build your shop with heavy-duty wood floors that would be
ideal, but if you are going to go the poured concrete route which is less
expensive and quite practical, a few words of advice.
For years I worked on a raw concrete floor which was cold and really
fatiguing to both my feet and my back, even though I did have rubber mats
in front of the most commonly used workbenches or tools.
Several years ago I laid-down modular interlocking soft-foam cushioning
throughout the areas of the shop where I actually walk or stand -- but
not under any tables, cabinets, or large equipment or tools.  In
addition, I still use the heavier and more-durable rubber mats in front
of those commonly used workstations on top of the softer cushioning.
When moving of medium size pieces of material or containers around the
shop I use hand trucks with 10" pneumatic tires, which rides well on the
cushioned floor.  However, if I am moving things that are on solid wheel
casters (metal or hard rubber) the cushioning becomes a hindrance and
bogs-down the rolling if there is any significant weight in the load.
But, with the modular interlocking cushions, I can easily pick-up and
remove the sections on the floor where I need to move the equipment or
large stones on the dollies, lifting hoist, large equipment, flatbed
trucks, etc. on the solid concrete surface.
After I am done, it is a matter of minutes to put the removed cushions
and mats back in place.
The sections can be removed and taken outside and hosed clean after the
inevitable spills of paint or liquids.  The cushioning does wear out
(especially if used near an arc welder or a grinder for metal), but I
keep a few extra pieces of the modular  sections on hand to replace them
when they get really ugly.
BTW - the 1/2" thick foam can easily be cut and used to cushion when
building or packing crates for transporting finished carvings.
Best of all, my back and my feet thank me every day I'm in the studio.

Good Planning to You,
Don

http://www.dondougan.homestead.com/indexdd.html