From:
"John VanCamp" <jvcstnwrks@zzzzzzzzzzzzz>
Date:
Fri, 11 Mar 2005 17:42:53 -0600
Subject:
saw blades
----- Original Message -----
From: "Norman Watts" <Norman_Watts@------- >
Sent: Friday, March 11, 2005 5:40 AM
Subject: [stone] saw blades
Quoted text begins.Looking through catalogs for saw blades to cut stone I find
they almost
all look alike and are claimed to be great, but prices vary
quite a
bit. What points do I look for in deciding on a blade?
End of quote.
Simon and others have already provided some good answers, but I
figured I'd throw my two cents in also. I have both wet, and
dry blades for the 20 inch wet saw, but hardly ever use it.
Also have dry cut diamonds in various sizes for both the
circular saws and the small and large grinders. Again I hardly
ever use them. As it has been pointed out, it is important to
have the proper blade for the stone one is cutting, and since
most of my work is in limestone, I find that the "carborundum"
or fiber blades work just fine. In fact since much of my work
is architectural in nature, these blades give me a truer, better
finished cut line than any diamond blade I've used can. That is
because the entire side of the blade is a cutting (grinding)
surface rather than the small amount of cutting area out on the
edge of the diamond blade. Sure, they wear down, but I look at
them like sand paper or other necessary expendable supplies, and
buy them in bulk quantites. 8 inch masonry cut off blade on a
7.25 inch circular saw will cut to 2.5 + inches in depth, and
one can step cut the face profile across a 6 or 7 foot mantle
without jigs, and get a nice true line. If I were working with
other types of stone, I'd be using other tools.
Just some additional thoughts
John VanCamp / JVC Stoneworks
- References
- message 00623: saw blades - Norman Watts (11 Mar 2005)
- Previous by Thread: message 00643: saw blades - Norman Watts (14 Mar 2005)
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