From:
Norman Watts <Norman_Watts@zzzzzzz>
Date:
Sat, 4 Jun 2005 12:55:28 -0400
Subject:
Introducing myself - western MA slate carver
On Jun 3, 2005, at 3:23 PM, Sarah Madison wrote:
Quoted text begins.Would appreciate any tips anyone can offer ranging from suppliers to
????
End of quote.
Hi Sarah,
I'm a newbie too, particularly in lettering in slate. I started a
couple of years ago. I buy slate from a local stone shop. I understand
the slate comes from Italy. I can't compare it to other types, but for
me it cuts well. There is also a quarry not too far away in Virginia
(Buckingham) that I am told has both high quality slate and is not too
expensive. I'm eager to check it out as I would like to work with a
"local" stone. As regards the chisels, I bought 3, 5 and 10 mm TCT
chisels (Red color) and a dummy from Tiranti in the UK. They work well
but I always worry about dropping a chisel, because I only have one of
each.
As for sharpening, I did that wrong for a long time, with a lot of fine
spalling occurring when first cutting into the stone surface. I
eventually got help from two people on this list. I only thought my
chisels were sharp, but they really weren't. Here is my take on what
they told me and it is what I still do with my chisels.
-I bought three continuous surface diamond flats (400, 600 and 1200
grit) (about 2 1/2 x 11 inches).
-I cleaned the TCT chisels and removed the paint covering/protecting
the tips
-Starting with the 400 grit I re-ground the entire tip to make the tip
angle shaper. Basically the idea was to reduce the angle of the chisel
and make it sharper over all. I did this by pressing the whole face of
the chisel tip on the diamond flat and moving it back and forth the
whole length of the flat, pressing more on the end towards the head. I
did this on both sides always taking care to press evenly and not wear
down one side (right and left) more than the other, that is, be very
careful to keep the cutting edge at right angles to the long axis of
the chisel, i.e. don't make a skew chisel (unless you want one of
course). After reshaping the chisel this way you can sharpen it.
-To sharpen go to the higher grits, always pressing the chisel onto the
diamond with the whole face. Don't pick up between the forward and
backward strokes. Grind in a line along the long axis of the diamond
flat so that the marks on the chisel are parallel with the long axis of
the tool.
-For a final sharpening raise the chisel a few degrees and with very,
very little pressure grind a small bevel using the 1200 grit diamond.
Do both sides.
-Sharpen the chisels lightly with the 600 and 1200 grit at the
beginning of each new letter
-Sharpen with 400, 600 and 1200 grit after each session, or after
several letters.
-To first cut into the slate and get a straight line I sometimes cheat
a bit by lightly drawing the corner of the chisel along a straight
edge. I suppose I should get away from doing that, but it helps me
start a straight line when I want it.
I've been looking at the Karin Sprague workshop link. I would love to
work in a place like that. You must have had a great time there.
n
Norman Watts, Ph. D.
National Institutes of Health
50 South Drive, Rm. 1509
Bethesda, MD 20892-8025
Phone: (301) 402-3418
Fax: (301) 480-7629
- Follow-ups
- message 00353: straightedge cheating; Karin Sprague workshop - madison (05 Jun 2005)
- References
- message 00344: Introducing myself - western MA slate carver - Sarah Madison (03 Jun 2005)
- Previous by Thread: message 00345: Introducing myself - western MA slate carver - daedelus lanthanien (03 Jun 2005)
- Next by Thread: message 00353: straightedge cheating; Karin Sprague workshop - madison (05 Jun 2005)
- Previous by Date: message 00350: Attaching an upright headstone to a base - John Graham (04 Jun 2005)
- Next by Date: message 00352: Attaching an upright headstone to a base - daedelus lanthanien (05 Jun 2005)
