Hammer for pitching - masonry - Hammer Set

Quoted text begins.I have a similar question regarding pitching for large quoin stones. I
want a look similar to the stones in the pictures below. I'll be using
slightly smaller stones, 11" thick. For pitching a face on that surface
will I have to go to a bull set? Or does anyone think I could use the
Trow and Holden Hammer Set, which is a 4 lb hammer with a 2" pitching
edge (may be 2.5" don't have my notes handy).
End of quote.

Greg,
You have an interesting project, and a good question. Anything I suggest
starts with , it depends.
It seems to me that first you need a very reliable source for your stone, so
you will have slabs always cut so you can use the grain to your advantage,
or at least so you know what the grain is doing. Then its up to you to learn
how much stone you need to get a rock pitched face. You will have to
sacrifice a piece to the learning process. If you have a good grained stone,
you should be able to get large flakes that go half way through. Then flip
your stone over and pitch from the bottom. With some practice you can get a
clean rock pitched surface.
When I worked with Barre granite, which in the monument world is always cut
so the grain is perpendicular with the saw cut,(and thats a wonderful
thing!) I would draw my finish line 3" in from the edge. Then transfer that
line down the side with a square so I could draw the same line across the
bottom of the slab. Then I'd start on the bottom side first by working about
1\2' off my finish line and stricking my set almost straight down, then
moving down the line to strick again, and leave about a 1" gap between
strickes. Do 4 hits this way , the go back and hit the gaps. You should feel
the stone loosening. You need to try to cleave off 8 to 10" flakes that
reach at least half way through. repete this pitching sequence a couple of
times , and keep trying to drive the crack straight down. When you have
learned your stone, you should be able to feel when its time to lean your
set over a couple more degrees and pop a nice big flake off. When the line
is pitched and then trimmed to the finished line, I'd flip the slab over and
do the other side the same way. When you have a clean rock pitched stone,
with no point marks or big hunks of stone hanging out, you are sort of done.
Doing corners remains! Removing 3" is what I took off when pitching 10"barre
granite. Your stone will surly be different. Taking off 1 1\2 to 2" is all I
needed when pitching 6 to 8"s.
The danger areas are the corners! I like to angle the first stricke at a
corner out so my break does not undercut and come out the bottom 4"s
inside your finished line. Oops! Another reaon not to hit as hard as
possible. Good clean corner work tells me a good stone cutter was on the
job.
With your back ground you shold be able to learn your material quickly and
get good results.
Good luck,
George Graham
http://www.grahamsculpturestudio.com